Whiskey, smoked fish ... why the south of Scotland is a destination of choice for epicureans - Travel World

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Sunday, 11 July 2021

Whiskey, smoked fish ... why the south of Scotland is a destination of choice for epicureans

Misconceptions about local gastronomy are tough. And yet, in this country known for the exceptional quality of its agriculture, its fishing and its drinks, it is impossible to miss out on good food and good addresses.

[En raison de la situation actuelle liée à l’épidémie de coronavirus, les dates d’ouverture des monuments et établissements cités dans l’article sont susceptibles d’être modifiées pour l’année 2020.]

Is the south of Scotland really an underside? After having traveled through this region which adjoins England according to the flavors, this will no longer be in doubt. This is all the more true in the south of the country, where Scotland begins, land of poets, kings and bloody wars with the perfidious Albion: enthusiasts highlight the best local products, with always in mind the idea of ​​energizing their region and making quality accessible to all. From culinary entertainment by celebrity chefs to whiskey and gin distilleries that aim for nothing less than perfection, to farmhouse shops and the best restaurants in the region, these are the must-sees in South Scotland. to excite his taste buds.

Put your feet under the table

On the banks of the River Nith, don’t miss the Boathouse Restaurant. The Boathouse Restaurant & Shop / Photo presse

The restaurant of Cringletie House, which dates from the 17th century, is worth a visit if only for the setting. Set in the countryside just outside the Edinburgh area, the big house, now a hotel, plunges us into the cozy atmosphere of a living room worthy of period films.

At the table, we offer seasonal Scottish dishes, simple and very well presented, with meticulously sourced products. Vegetarians, vegan and those with special dietary needs can request to adapt their menu. South of Dumfries, by the river Nith, do not miss the Boathouse, which offers varied and local dishes, ranging from seafood to the catch of the day.

A beer to quench your thirst

Born in the Borders is a must for all craft beer lovers. Born in the Borders / Compte Facebook

Minutes from the small town of Jedburgh, known for its magnificent medieval abbey, and the border with England, Born in the Borders is a must for all lovers of craft beer and local gastronomy. The brewery, on the site of an old farmhouse on the banks of the River Teviot, established in 2011, was at the time the 47th in Scotland. There are now over 140!

Since then, a gin distillery has been added to Born in the Borders: it is called Lilliard, like the local heroine of the 16th century who waged a merciless war against the English who had murdered her lover. To taste the best produce from the region, take a trip to the brasserie’s small restaurant, which serves hearty, simple dishes ranging from ploughman’s lunch (the plowman’s lunch, based on pies, cheeses and raw vegetables) at fish’n chips through the soups of the day, in a rustic and bucolic setting.

The genius gin

Did you know that 70% of the gin produced in the UK is actually made in Scotland? the Crafty Distillery / Photo presse

Further east on the border between Scotland and England, near the Gulf of Solway in the region of Dumfries & Galloway, the Crafty Distillery is a little gem of taste, intelligence and humor. The distillery’s logo, a lightning bolt that mimics the shape of the map of Scotland, is a nod to the country’s flash of genius that has given the world many scientific and technological innovations, and to the state-of-the-art process of making their spirits. The visit to the distillery ends with a tasting of their flagship gin, Hills and Harbour Gin, and their astonishing cocktail distilled with orange and pineapple.

Gourmets will not miss the formula Galloway Picnic, which includes three local products, such as cheeses, cold meats, fish or jams, for the modest sum of 12 pounds for two people. To be tasted, in moderation of course, while enjoying a superb view over the rolling countryside of Galloway.

The return of whiskey to the south of Scotland

The Annandale Distillery was established in 1836 and was reborn in 2014 following a massive £ 10.5million restoration project. Annandale / Photo presse

After a parenthesis of almost a hundred years, whiskey production is making a comeback in the region of Dumfries with rebirth d’Annandale. The distillery, built between 1830 and 1836, was no more than a ruin when it was taken over by David Thomson and Teresa Church in 2007.

After an investment of several million pounds, the distillery reopened its doors in 2014, and now offers two flagship whiskeys, the fruity Man O ‘Words and the peaty Man O’ Sword, in reference to the two most famous figures of the region, even Scotland: the poet Robert Burns, and King Robert the Bruce. After you’ve toured the distillery and learned all about traditional whiskey making, grab a bite to eat at The Maltings, the distillery coffee. On the menu: tasting platters of local products, baked potatoes and appetizing homemade desserts.

Hands on with Ruth Hinks

In Peebles, we will make a chocolate and gourmet stop at Cocoa Black. Cocoa Black / Photo presse

Theory is good, practice is better! We cannot recommend enough Cocoa Black, in the charming town of Peebles located about thirty kilometers from Edinburgh, and its chocolate and pastry workshops provided by star chocolate maker Ruth Hinks. In his classes, you will learn all about chocolate making and try your hand at making truffles, lollipops and other cocoa-flavored delicacies, always with a cup of hot chocolate close at hand.

If you have a savory palate, head to Station House cooking school in the city of Kirkcudbright (pronounce «heart-neck-brie», Editor’s note), and his courses and demonstrations of Indian, French, Thai or Eastern European cooking offered by Nick Morris since 2016. We come out with new recipe ideas, but also tips for the preparation of ingredients from based. No more sticky rice, poorly cooked pasta, and badly seasoned dishes!

Culinary memories

In Carsluith, stop at Marrbury Smokehouse, to discover award-winning smoked fish from wild salmon fisherman and master craftsman Vincent Marr. Marrbury Smokehouse / Photo presse

After having tested the best of the region’s products, it is difficult to leave without bringing some home. Several options are available to you, each more enticing than the other. AT The Teviot Smokery, halfway between the shopping town of Kelso and of Jedburgh, smoked fish, especially salmon, are the specialty. The products come from the best suppliers in the country, like all the products available in the shop and the café.

Lovers of smoked fish will also be delighted at Marrbury Smokehouse, on the coast of Solway overlooking the Irish Sea, whose smoked salmon finds its place in the dishes of Michelin-starred chef Andrew Fairlie. Kilnford Farm Shop is another address that does not compromise on quality. The place was imagined and built by Jock Rome, whose farm has been in the family for 300 years.

To counter the decline caused by mass distribution, he imagined a store to sell products from the farm, located 5 kilometers away, as well as local crafts. Successful bet: the store has become a must, both for locals and passing people, who can taste the farm products in the on-site restaurant.


Travelogue

AND ALLER
1h50 flight for one Paris – Edinburgh or Glasgow.
Two flights per day with Air France, two flights per day with Easyjet except Tuesdays and Saturdays (one flight per day). A flight on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays with Transavia. Count 100 euros round trip in low season, up to 300 euros in August.
Then by car: Edimbourg – Peebles : 50 minutes, Edimbourg – Dumfries : 2 heures. Glasgow – Peebles : 1h20, Glasgow – Dumfries : 1h30.

STAY
Cringletie House, Cringletie, Edinburgh Road, Peebles, EH45 8PL. Tél. : +44 1721 725 750.

CLOSE Roxburghe Hotel & Golf Course, Heiton, Kelso TD5 8JZ. Tel. : +44 1573 450 331.

Trigony House, A76, Closeburn, Thornhill DG3 5EZ. Tél. : +44 1848 331 211.

EAT, TASTE … AND BUY
Born in the Borders, Lanton Mill, Jedburgh TD8 6ST. Tél. : +44 1835 830 495.

The Teviot Game Fare Smokery, Kirkbank House, Eckford, Kelso, TD5 8LE. Tél. : +44 1835 850 253.

The Boathouse, Quayside, Glencaple, Dumfries DG1 4RE. Tél. : +44 1387 770 673.

The Crafty Distillery, Wigtown Road, Newton Stewart, Galloway, DG8 6AS. Tél. : +44 1671 404 040.

The Maltings Coffee Shop, Northfield, Annan, DG12 5LL. Tél. +44 1461 207 817.

Kilnford Farm Shop, Kilnford Barns, The Glen, Dumfries, DG2 8PT. Tél. : +44 1387 253 087.