3,500 years of Greek history in three major and evocative sites. Mycenae, the city rich in gold of Homer, Epidaurus and its famous theater and, between the two, Nafplion, the most charming city of the Peloponnese.
At an hour and a half from Athens, the Argolis concentrates three treasures of ancient and modern Greece. We put our bags in Nafplion, the most romantic and refined city of the Peloponnese which nestles in the hollow of the Argolic Gulf. The first capital of the country (from 1829 to 1834) exudes an irresistible charm with its Venetian and Ottoman monuments, its alleys filled with cafes and taverns, its fascinating museums, its promenade by the water. Not far from there, we revise its classics by visiting Mycenae and the famous theater of Epidaurus, two archaeological sites stamped heritage of humanity.
Romantic Nafplio
The site is spectacular: the small town leans against two rocks with vertiginous walls and crowned with ancient citadels. Strolling through the old town is a delight between its monuments, its neoclassical houses, its lively squares, but also its escape to the sea: at the end of the port, a pleasant promenade goes around the rock of Acronafplion to the beach of ‘Arvanitias (allow 30 minutes on foot for the complete tour).
The heart of the city pulses on the large cobbled square of Syntagma, covered with cafes and dominated by the imposing facade of the archaeological museum. On either side of the square, we will notice two monuments topped with a dome. These two old mosques have been transformed: one into a theater, the Trianon; the other, the Vouleftikon, as a cultural center after having housed the first Greek parliament when Nafplion was the capital of the young Greek state.
The archaeological museum
Located in the old Venetian arsenal, this little museum is a gem. From Paleolithic to Roman times, it highlights the treasures of Argolida, one of the cradles of Greek civilization. Ceramics, jewelry, seals of great finesse …: the first floor is dedicated to the Mycenaean period (sites of Tyrinthe, Argos, etc.). We will not miss the bronze breastplate of a warrior from the 15th century BC. JC, with his helmet decorated with boar tusks. The second floor covers the following period with in particular superb ceramics and votive masks from ancient Epidaurus.
Syntagma Square. Phone. : 0030 27 52 02 75 02. Open from 8:30 am to 4 pm, closed Tuesday. € 6
The Palamède fortress
We go there mainly for the view. A word of advice: sharpen your calves and climb the 900 or so steps that lead to the citadel (the stairs are taken in Arvanitias street). What a joy to rise little by little while multiplying the points of view on the Argolic gulf and the tangled roofs of the city. Covering the summit (216 m), the citadel enjoys a breathtaking panorama, along its bastions and its walls. It was built in 1714 by the Venetians who wanted to regain a foothold in the Peloponnese.
Access by car or on foot, tel. : 0030 27 52 02 80 36, 8 €, open daily from 8 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.
The legendary Mycenae
One can only be impressed by Mycenae, austere citadel which dominates the fertile plain of Argos. First by the myths and the history which meet in this city which shone 3500 years ago and which is at the origin of the Mycenaean civilization. According to legend, Mycenae was founded by Perseus, the son of Zeus and Danae. And its gigantic walls were built by the Cyclops. As for his royal family, the Atrides, it inspired tragedies and epics including the famous Iliade of Homer.
In fact, the site framed by two sharp hills is impressive. We are greeted by the Lion’s Gate, a monumental entrance adorned with two animals. We cross the circle of royal tombs where a number of funeral masks and gold jewelry have been found, including the famous mask of Agamemnon. Completely destroyed around 1150 BC, little remains of the Palace. But from the top of the Acropolis, the view is breathtaking over the Argos plain covered with olive and orange trees, the mountains and the sea in the distance.
Archaeological Museum and Treasure of Atrée
Frescoes, statuaries, ceramics as well as copies of gold objects found in the tombs: the archaeological museum gives the measure of the wealth and refinement of the Mycenaeans. Do not miss 300 m before entering the site, the Atrée treasure: dug into a hill, this monumental cupola tomb is striking in its size and construction in the shape of a beehive.
Mycenae is located 12 km north of Nafplio. Phone. : 0030 27 51 07 65 85. Variable hours: 8:30 am – 3:30 pm in winter to 8 am-8pm in the heart of summer. 12 € for the entrance to the main site, the museum and the treasury of Atrée.
Epidaurus, cradle of medicine
We go there for its famous theater: a marvel of 12,000 seats, with exceptional acoustics, leaning against a green hill. But few people know that Epidaurus is first and foremost a sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine. For a millennium from the 6th c. Before JC, people came from all over Greece for treatment in this huge therapeutic center located in a particularly pleasant environment between pine forests and gentle hills.
To welcome and care for the sick, accompanied by their families and friends, a hotel, stadium, thermal baths and theater were built. In the center itself, the sick made offerings to Asclepius in his temple, before waiting for the god’s visit in their sleep by sleeping in the Abaton, the dormitory dedicated to them. The priests interpreted dreams and prescribed remedies and exercises.
Theater
To appreciate the whole site, we recommend that you first visit the museum and the sanctuary of Asklepios (on the left as you enter) before going to the theater (to the right of the entrance), which is captivatingly beautiful. Built in the 4th century BC, it doubled in size two centuries later. With its orchestra, its skiné (scene) and its fifty-five rows of bleachers, it is considered a model of the genre. What an emotion to sit in the place of the ancient Greeks.
Epidaurus and Athens Festival: ancient tragedies and contemporary shows are normally performed every summer in the ancient theater.
Epidaurus is located 27 km east of Nafplio, near the village of Ligourio. Phone. : 0030 27 53 02 20 09. Variable hours: 8:30 am – 3:30 pm in winter, 8 am – 8 pm in the heart of summer. € 12.
Practical notebook
MOVE
By car, rental from Athens airport (Avis, Hertz, etc.).
By bus: they are regular between Athens (central station of Kifissos) and Nafplion (2h10), then from Nafplion to Mycenae (30 minutes) or Epidaurus (3 / 4h approximately). (www.ktelargolida.gr; phone: 0030 27 52 02 74 23)
WHEN TO GO
All year round, especially autumn, winter and spring, which are much milder than in France. Nafplion is then very popular with Athenians on weekends. Out of season, you can almost alone enjoy the grandiose sites of Mycenae and Epidaurus.
Where to sleep and eat in Nafplio
Nafsimedon
Facing Kolokotroni Park, this small boutique hotel has 13 elegant and romantic rooms. Sideras Merarxias 9. Tel. : 0030 27 52 02 50 60, 75-100 € per night with breakfast.
Pension Marianna
This coral-red guesthouse dominates all of Nafplion from the top of a stepped lane. Good news: you can park right above, in Akronauplie. Heartwarming welcome.
Potamianou 9. Tel. : 0030 27 52 02 42 56. 70-100 € per night with breakfast.
Noulis Tavern
This neat little taverna offers delicious Greek cuisine. Apart from the classics tzaziki, tarama, eggplant caviar, moussaka … taste the saganaki cheese, flambéed at your table by the chef himself.
Moutsouridou 22, at the entrance to the old center. Phone. : 0030 27 52 02 55 41, closed on Sundays in summer. In winter only one service at noon (12-4 p.m.) and closed on Mondays.
Ancient ice cream shop in Rome
Located behind the archaeological museum, this Italian glacier is a must-see institution.
Antika gelateria di Roma, Farmakopoulou 3 & Michail Komninou. Tel. : 0030 27 52 02 35 20.
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