Charming fishing harbors or postcards lost in the countryside, discover three corners of paradise far from the crowds in England and Scotland.
More than ever, we need to take the field, or take off, in dreamy and quiet places. What if we escaped to Britain? Not far from its bustling cities, the United Kingdom reserves pretty escapades, in its small ports sheltered from the waves of tourists, and its laughing villages, crossed by rivers.
From the south of England, blooming with medieval coastal towns, from the trawlers of the Lowlands of Scotland, through the pastoral Cotswolds, we discover castles, perched above sandy bays and watered by the sun, and fairy-tale towns where time has stood still for a long time …
Dans l’East Sussex : Rye
Walking through these little cobbled streets, lined with half-timbered houses, you would think you were in the Middle Ages. Particularly up the lovely Mermaid Street, which leads to Rye Castle. Built in 1249, it protected the city, an important commercial port, regularly attacked by the French.
Today the castle is a museum, offering stunning vistas of the Rother River and the sea. To get a closer look, walk 30 minutes among salt marshes and sheep to the dunes at Camber Sands Beach. On the way back, stroll through the antique shops and bric-a-brac and have a drink in one of the many old pubs.
Rye is on the edge of Kent, a verdant region known as “the garden of England”. It is home to excellent wineries to visit, including Chapel Down (7.5 miles), award-winning for its sparkling wines.
AND ALLER
Rye is an hour by train from London St Pancras and 20 minutes from Ashford where some Eurostars stop. Arriving by ferry at Folkestone or Dover it is 40-50 minutes by train or car.
Visitor Center : Town Hall, Market Street, TN31 7LA ; tél. : +44 1797 223 902 ; visit1066country.com.
OR SLEEP ?
Rye Windmill
A comfortable B&B in a mill. Double room from € 222 for two nights.
Rye Windmill, Ferry Road, TN31 7DW. Tél. : +44 1797 224 027.
The Mermaid Inn
Impossible to come to Rye without visiting this inn which seems to have stayed in the 15th century. We would meet some ghosts there… Double room from 156 €.
The Mermaid Inn, Mermaid Street, TN31 7EY. Tel. : +44 1797 223 065.
AT TABLE !
The Standard Inn
A beautiful traditional pub, acclaimed for its perfectly executed classics, like its fish and chips and his meadow-salted lamb. Card, € 17-24.
The Standard Inn, The Mint, TN31 7EN. Tél. : +44 1797 225 231.
ESSENTIALS
Mermaid Street, with a stop at the Mermaid Inn for a beer or a night.
Rye Castle : History fans love it. Without entering the museum, you can admire the Ypres Tower and walk freely through the cannon yard which overlooks the marshes. Most ? The breathtaking view of the ocean from the top of the hill. (Gungarden, TN31 7HE, www.ryemuseum.co.uk.)
Camber Sands : located 7 kilometers from Rye, it is one of the only sandy beaches in the region, popular with surfers.
In Wiltshire: Castle Combe
Do you recognize this bucolic corner? Castle Combe has served as the backdrop for many films and series including War Horse and Downton Abbey. It sits in the Cotswolds, rolling green hills in southwest England, dotted with yellow stone villages.
To fall in love with Castle Combe, just take three steps down the main street from the Bridge over the River Bybrook to Market Cross. This monument once marked the location of the market and dates from the 14th century. Most of the buildings here date back to the Middle Ages: from weavers’ cottages, buried under wisteria, to the exquisite St Andrews Church.
The village is surrounded by key sites and attractions. Speed buffs will head to the Castle Combe Circuit, and lovers of old stones, to the village of Lacock (12km) – the filming location of the saga Harry Potter – or in Bath, a magnificent and unique spa town in the United Kingdom (24 km away).
And aller
The nearest international airport is Bristol, but the easiest way is to arrive from London by the Paddington-Chippenham train, then take the 35 bus. It takes two hours and by car as well. Visitors’ parking at the top of the village is free.
There is no tourist office but you can find information about the village at visitwiltshire.co.uk.
OR SLEEP ?
The Manor House
5-star hotel in a 14th century manor house, with a golf course and a starred restaurant. Double room from € 222.
The Manor House, Castle Combe, Chippenham SN14 7HX. Tél. : +44 1249 782 206.
The Castle Inn
Small 4-star hostel. Double room from 178 €.
The Castle Inn, West Street, Castle Combe, Chippenham SN14 7HN. Tél. : + 44 1249 783 030.
AT TABLE !
The Bybrook au Manor House
English and modern cuisine by starred chef Rob Potter who sublimates local ingredients in a grandiose setting (tasting menu € 105).
The White Hart : a good old pub as we like it, with a fireplace and a terrace. Perfect for a pint of ale or a Sunday roast. Card, € 12-14.
Whitehart Ford, The Street, Castle Combe, Chippenham SN14 7HU. Tél. : + 44 1249 782 295.
ESSENTIALS
A stroll down Main Street and along the Bybrook River.
The Manor House, a country and luxury getaway, for a tea time, a dinner or a night.
In Scotland: Crail
They say there is no bad weather in Scotland, only bad clothes. If you brought shorts, you did well because Crail is in the sunniest part of the country: the Fife Peninsula.
Read also :Ten reasons to (re) discover Scotland
In the hollow of steep cliffs, this 400-year-old village seduces with its cobbled streets and fishing cottages. Watch the boats ballet in and out of the harbor as you sample freshly caught shellfish from Reilly Shellfish then take a dip at pretty Roome Bay Beach or learn about local crafts from Crail Pottery potter.
Nearby is the Cambo Walled Gardens, both wild and sophisticated in beauty, to be discovered along the Fife Coastal Path. This coastal path is punctuated by villages, each one cuter than the next. Among them, Kingsbarns and its whiskey distillery are worth a visit.
And aller
The nearest international airport is Edinburgh and Crail is an hour and 20 minutes by car from the airport or two hours and 40 minutes by train and bus. The towns of Fife are well connected to each other thanks to the Stagecoach bus network (unlimited travel day ticket: € 5).
Crail does not currently have a tourist office open but you can find information on the village page of the Visitscotland.com site.
OR SLEEP ?
Honeypot Guest House & Tea Room
Central, cozy and warm B&B. Double room from 101 €.
Honeypot Guest House & Tea Room, 6 High Street, KY10 3TD. Tél. : + 44 1333 450 935.
Fairmont St Andrews
5-star resort with golf course, 10 kilometers from Crail, on a bluff facing the sea and St Andrews. Double room from 290 €.
Fairmont St Andrews, St Andrews KY16 8PN. Tél. : + 44 1334 837 000.
AT TABLE !
Crail Harbour Gallery & Tearoom
Café and picturesque art gallery in a 17th century stone cottage, to savor scones or crab salad, with a view of the sea. Carte, € 7-14.
Crail Harbour Gallery & Tearoom, Shoregate, Crail, Anstruther KY10 3SU. Tél. : +44 1333 451 896.
The Cellar
A starred restaurant that gives pride of place to the region’s marine treasures in a rustic and elegant setting. Lunch tasting menu, € 50; dinner, € 83.
The Cellar, 24 E Green, Anstruther KY10 3AA. Tél. : + 44 1333 310 378.
Read also :Whiskey, smoked fish … why the south of Scotland is a destination of choice for epicureans
ESSENTIALS
La cabane Reilly Shellfish : Crabs and lobsters to take away, for a royal picnic on the port. (34 Shoregate, KY10 3SU)
Cambo Walled Gardens : one of the most beautiful gardens in Scotland to visit all year round, especially in February when the snowdrops are in bloom. (Kingsbarns, KY16 8QD; www.cambogardens.org.uk.)
Kingsbarns Distillery : a promising young distillery in the middle of barley fields to learn about Lowland whiskey (Kingsbarns KY16 8QE; www.kingsbarnsdistillery.com.)
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