Contemplative immersion in the heart of the most arid desert on the planet, at the northern end of Chile, whose fascinating landscapes reconcile body and soul.
Hike in mesmerizing landscapes
Under skies of an eternal Tuareg blue that no light pollution taints – which makes it an exceptional site for astrotourism -, the bewitching Atacama Desert, in Chile, offers a thousand and one wonders to the eager eye for great virgin spaces, incandescent lights, botanical or geological curiosities. After the busy Valley of the moon, we will be able to survey the astonishing and unknown Rainbow Valley, with its rainbow cliffs born from magmatic upheavals and erosion.
But it is at more than 4300m of altitude, walking among the thorny thickets and the strange tufts of lime green lareta of the altiplano, that a poignant feeling of gratitude embraces the heart, at the sight of lagunes Miscanti and Miñiques. A celestial picture, almost unreal, barely disturbed by a few squalls and the furtive passage of an Andean fox; a little further, answers the even more astonishing one of Red stones, orange-pink volcanic rocks bordering a topaz blue lake.
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Enjoy the benefits of geothermal activity
The natural waterfalls of Puritama undulate like a dream at the bottom of a Siena-colored canyon, 30 km from the village of San Pedro. This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful thermal experiences there is, in a setting specific to absolute letting go. Accompanied by dragonflies, we follow a long red slatted floor nestled in the middle of immense feathered reeds, leading from one basin to another; Rich in sulfur and minerals, the water at 33 ° C rushing through the rocks massages sore bodies more effectively than the best spas.
Not far away, nestled at an altitude of 4,300 m, the 80 geysers of Tatio belching, gurgling and hissing. You have to get up very early to admire them, when the temperatures are still negative, and these astonishing mineral formations spit out their carbonated fumaroles. If the water that creates these daunting columns of steam with the strong scent of hydrogen sulphide boils at 85 °, one can however bathe, a few meters away, in the “pozo rústico” a small natural swimming pool at 30 ° C. loaded with minerals, which makes an infant’s skin.
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Observe wild animals
The Atacameños Indians (or Lickan Antay, which means “people of the earth”), here on their ancestral lands, have always known the therapeutic properties of the lagoons of the salar d’Atacama, a vast salt desert stretching as far as the eye can see not far from the Bolivian border, and territory of 3 species of pink flamingos (Chilean, Andean, and James) which can be observed especially in the Chaxa Lagoon. Apprentice ornithologists will spend hours admiring through binoculars the giant coots and other Andean seagulls that abound in the Bofedal de Putana, sublime high-altitude marsh at the foot of the eponymous volcano, where vicuñas are also queens.
Along with guanacos, these slender wild camelids are among the typical species of the Andes Cordillera, and do not approach easily; the fearless llama and the bushy alpaca, domesticated for their flesh and their wool, cross more frequently. In this grandiose mineral kingdom, you will also see rheas (local ostriches) running here and there, and viscaches, cousins of the chinchilla.
See the desert from the top of a volcano
Is it possible to get closer to the gods Lickan Antay, to feel a stronger connection to this plateau of the precordillera where life hangs by a thread, where water is the most precious commodity? Yes, by attempting the ascent – demanding but accessible to all – from Cerro Toco volcano, which rises to 5,604 m. Despite the shortness of breath, the beating heart, the heavy head as the oxygen becomes scarce, the purifying power of the place makes it possible to push back the limits of oneself, without violence. Slowly but surely putting our footsteps in those of the guide, we accomplish the feat we thought was out of reach.
From up there, leading to the south of Bolivia, the view is overwhelming, draws tears from the eyes. Deploying a whole palette of ocher, mole, mauve, the volcano watches like a sleeping giant over the bewitching beauty of this New World desert. We smile, fully, in a gentle euphoria, as if in levitation … The place is of course conducive to a meditation that we will not soon forget.
Travelogue
How to get there?
From Paris, direct flights to Santiago de Chile with Air France (count 2:30 p.m.), or via Madrid with Iberia (around 5 p.m.). In Santiago, you take a SkyAirline flight back to Calama (2 hours). Then allow 1h30 drive to the oasis of San Pedro de Atacama. This pretty typical village at an altitude of 2500 m is the gateway to the desert. Unmissable tourist destination with no low season, there are more than 200 local travel agencies, offering a variety of services.
Or sleep?
On the principle of high-end all-inclusive, the three lodges include excursions in their prices: in small groups for l’Alto Atacama and the Atacama Land ; with his own guide, vehicle and driver at l’Awasi. Another common point is that all rooms are equipped with an outdoor shower.
● Watch the Atacama
We fell in love with the Awasi. In the heart of the village, in an old sheepfold, 8 rooms of great refinement. We recommend the circulars, more exotic, soft and intimate, located in the main enclosure. Rectangular, the other 3 bedrooms are more classic but more spacious. Luxury of details and attentions like the shoes brushed after each excursion. Excellent cuisine. Breakfast concocted by the chef himself before our eyes. As for excursions, anything is possible, such as climbing a volcano, participating in a traditional local festival or royal picnics organized by the salt flats. Swimming pool (unheated). From € 1,350 per person for 2 nights.
Watch out for the Atacama. Tel .: 00 56 22 23 39 641.
● Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa
You feel in the heart of the desert in this ranch-style lodge, surrounded by glowing cliffs. The complex has 42 spacious and comfortable rooms, water features including 6 swimming pools that can be almost privatized and an outdoor jacuzzi. Pleasant spa. Good cuisine from the Altiplano. The chef has a big barbecue on the weekends. Drinks from the minibar are offered. Ideal with children. From 490 € per night per person.
Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa. Tél.: 00.56.22.91.23.945.
● Tierra Atacama Hotel Boutique & Spa
Zen atmosphere and design for this lodge located in the oasis. Its strengths? Undoubtedly its daring architecture and the view of the Licancabur volcano. Superb spa with indoor and outdoor pools. Rather sober, the rooms occupy rust-colored metal boxes wide open onto the oasis thanks to a huge bay window. From € 1,104 per person for 2 nights.
Tierra Atacama Hotel Boutique & Spa. Tel .: 00 56 22 20 78 861.
Which travel agencies on site?
The competition between local tour operators is raging, so it is necessary to turn to quality structures, registered with Sernatur, the Chilean Tourist Office. Remember to book your excursions several weeks in advance. You can of course visit the region on your own by renting a 4×4, but the roads can be very trying, and you will miss out on the valuable explanations of the guides.
All the agencies are aligned on a rate of 15 € / person for the cheapest excursion – Valle della Luna or Puritama for example – and up to 60 € / person for the Altiplanicas and Piedras Rojas lagoons, and 90 € / person for a tour including the major tourist sites of the area.
Our recommendations:
Atacama Inca Tours
Talatur Expeditions
Expediciones Illari, created by Lickan Antay guides very involved in ethno and eco-tourism.
Acamarachi W&P, for geology and history enthusiasts.
Locaventuras, the most serious agency for the ascent of Cerro Toco, with in addition French-speaking guides.
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