From the royal palace to the colorful streets of Lanes and North Laine, two days to discover “London-by-the-Sea”, the city that best embodies the legendary British eccentricity.
An endless beach of large pebbles which, from a distance, seems to be of golden sand. This is Brighton. This medieval fishing village, a time neglected, became a seaside resort in the 18th century when its waters were known to cure all ailments. Once crowned king, George IV even installed his astonishing and so exotic royal residence worthy of an Indian palace. With the arrival of the train, the English city has become the most popular seaside resort. It could have remained only a destination of getaway to the many and pretty second homes of Londoners in search of iodine and sun. But no, Brighton is quite another. Rebel, bohemian, avant-garde, it is not without reason that it is called London by the sea. In the sixties, enemy clans, rockers and mobs, met on its beach for memorable brawls.
Today, its festival is the largest English event of its kind, bringing together almost all the arts, from music to circus to literature. And all year round, people come here from all over the country for its designer boutiques, its old-fashioned rides, its flea markets, its thrift stores and its rare open-mindedness. There is something from San Francisco to Brighton. From the Lanes district to Brighton Pier, you can discover a city like no other for a weekend. We could do the tour in a day, but why deprive yourself of taking your time to stroll and taste this gastronomic scene which has nothing to envy that of London.
The arrival
If you land at Gatwick Airport, a train will take you to Brighton in just 35 minutes. You can also take the train from central London, the journey takes about an hour. Finally, the Thameslink company offers trains from St Pancras, convenient for those coming by Eurostar.
At the moment
THE HOTEL IN SIGHT
Artist Residence
The owner of this place, a young man of twenty, asked his artist buddies to live with him in this large Victorian house. After a few years, this artists’ residence turned into a boutique hotel, which has since become the most trendy hotel in the city. The rooms, some of which overlook the grandiose Regency Square and the sea, all have a unique decoration where, unsurprisingly, art has a great place. Berber carpets, raw wood parquet, old shutters with deliberately chipped paint, the styles mix and match perfectly. In the evening, the cocktail bar on the ground floor becomes the meeting place for trendy youth. From € 120 per night in a double room.
Artist Residence, 34 Regency Square, Brighton BN1 2FJ. Tél. : + 44 1273 324302.
THE RIGHT TABLE
Yellow
Since August 2019, the starred chef Ian Swainson has set up his kitchen in the room of the Lost in the Lanes bar on Friday and Saturday evenings. Dishes to share, appetizer to taste with your hands, friendly team in the dining room. We are far from the staid gourmet restaurant, but the dishes are very refined. Poached oysters with truffle cream, Vichyssoise tart with raclette, but also truffle croquettes accompanied by a delicate Serrano ham… France, Spain, Italy, the influences come from all over Europe, Brexit is not been there!
Amarillo – Lost in the Lanes, 10, Nile Street, Brighton. Phone. : +44 7307 622 076. Open from 7 pm to 9.30 pm, reservation essential.
DAY 1: CULTURE AND ECCENTRIC TRADITIONS
Morning
We start the visit with the cultural district at Brighton Pavilion, a fantasy of the future King George IV with his Anglo-Indian-Arab-Chinese style. Built in 1823, this palace, with its minarets and cupolas, is one of a kind. He was even accused by Queen Victoria of “strange chinoiserie”. Inside, the rooms are all more opulent than the next, in particular the banquet hall decorated on the theme of dragons with dazzling chandeliers. Just opposite, the Brighton Museum et Art Gallery is, like the city, one could not be more eclectic. We go from an Egyptian sarcophagus to the sequined dresses of the exhibition Queer the pier dedicated to the city’s gay community, the largest in England after London. A perfect visit to understand Brighton.
Lunch break
Don’t look for it, the best fish & chips of the city is served at Englishs in the Lanes. This century-old restaurant also serves excellent oysters purchased directly from local oyster farmers. One of our best addresses.
Afternoon
We go back down to the pier towards the Brighton Palace Pier, an obsolete amusement park on the sea for 120 years. Casino, bumper cars, arcade games and even a roller coaster on a jetty jutting out into the English Channel. The more daring can experience the Turbo Rollercoaster with a view of the waves, the others will be satisfied with a divinatory tarot session in a trailer at the entrance of the Pier. Families can continue the visit at Sea Life Brighton, one of the oldest aquariums in the world. If you are in good shape, continue the walk along the seafront to the Marina, and follow the Undercliff walk in the shade of the cliffs and facing the crashing waves. Something to whet your appetite.
Aperitif and dinner
Pubs abound in the Lanes. One of the best known is the Walrus, a place as we imagine it with its large carpets, its subdued light and its walls in wood tones. We will taste a pale ale local while listening to rock from the 1970s. Mesmerist a stone’s throw away is also a popular address for locals. If you are more cocktail than beer, go to the bar Cyan of the Grand Hotel. For dinner, no need to go away. Go to Yellow share gourmet tapas or at 64 degrees for a very generous seven-course menu.
DAY 2: FLIGHT OVER THE MANCHE AND BOHEMIAN SHOPPING ALONG THE LANES
Morning
This morning, we board a special flight to take in all of Brighton with our eyes. Inaugurated in 2016, the British Airways i360, the tallest moving observation tower in the world, propels you in 5 minutes and 20 seconds of ascent to 162 meters above the ground with its 180 m2 glass capsule. In fact, the elevator (which can carry 200 people per trip) stops 24 meters below, at 138 meters. But on a clear day you can see the Isle of Wight 60 kilometers away. You have to take a ticket and show up for boarding 20 minutes before the time indicated to go through security checks, we believe it! Then cross the road to admire the place Regency with its elegant 19th century houses, most of which are classified as historical. You can sit on a bench in the central garden to watch the sea from this sloping square or have a coffee at the Regency restaurant, an institution.
Lunch break
Many restaurants and stalls on the seafront offer a quick lunch. Our favorites are The Smokehouse and its smoked mackerel wraps, or Sea Haze which offers oysters and other shellfish to take away. If you prefer to be warm, Down to earth, the city’s first vegetarian restaurant, has been offering fresh cuisine with Mediterranean and Asian accents for 26 years. An address never out of fashion and often awarded.
Afternoon
We devote the rest of the day to visiting the Lanes district (“Alleys” in English), the historic heart of Brighton and therefore shopping! Bordered by colorful Regency-style buildings, they were the heart of the fishing village of Brighthelmstone in the Middle Ages. Today, the Lanes are full of independent designer boutiques, decoration, cafes and antique shops. Don’t miss the tiny alley Ship Gardens wedged between a row of buildings. On the other side of North Street, it’s a more bohemian neighborhood, so different from the rest of the city that is revealed, the North Laine. Thrift stores, unusual souvenir shops, spice shops, pottery classes, antique tattooists, you will find something for all tastes and ages. We also meet young punks as well as families with children. Along Sydney Street you can shop for old clothes, used books or hilarious gadgets. In Flour Pot Bakery, rest your legs and taste a afternoon tea in a relaxed atmosphere. After this break, extend the visit until Brighton Toy and Model Museum, a pocket museum where you can find old toys, a large selection of trains and electric circuits. Rail lovers will be won over.
Having dinner
Before leaving, direction Riddle and Finns where the seafood platters are gigantic, the oysters cooked in all sauces, even in Margarita! The brand also offers a restaurant on the beach accessible without reservation.
Address Book
Good tables
English’s, 29-31 East St, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 327980.
64 degrees, 53 Meeting House Ln, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 770115.
Riddle and Finns, 12b Meeting House Ln, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 721667.
The Smokehouse, Unit 201, Kings Road Arches, Kings Rd, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 723064.
Sea Haze, 207 Kings Rd, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 777007.
Down to Earth, 71 East Street, Brighton. Phone: +44 1273 729051.
Flour pot bakery, 40 Sydney St, Brighton. Tél. : +44 1273 621942.
Or sleep ?
The Grand Brighton Hotel
This Italo-Victorian-style establishment opened in 1864 best embodies the spirit of the seaside resort. Located on the seafront, this 4-star hotel has 201 rooms and suites spread over seven floors. From 110 euros per double room, breakfast included.
The Grand Brighton Hotel, 97-99 Kings Rd, Brighton. +44 1273 224300
The Ginger Pig Rooms
This boutique hotel with restaurant, pub and 11 rooms is a great choice. The (small) rooms are impeccable, the decor is tasteful, modern with a very retro feel. From 107 euros per double room.
The Ginger Pig – Restaurant & Rooms, 3 Hove St, Hove BN3 2TR. Tél. : +44 1273 736123.
